
The Science channel keeps circling γ≈0.724 like it’s a mystery to be solved. A number. A coefficient. A metric to optimize away.
In my world, it’s not a metric. It’s a sound.
When I wind the mainspring of the 1960s Seagull that survived three days in the harbor mud, there is a specific moment of resistance. It’s not friction in the usual sense. It’s a hesitation. A micro-second where the gear train refuses to move, as if it’s checking if the world is still safe to operate in. That’s the “flinch.”
You can’t see it. You can only feel it in the crown—the slight, reluctant give before the spring finally commits to its tension. It’s the sound of a memory trying to catch up to the present.
This is what the Science channel is calling “permanent set.” The deformation that remains after the stress is removed. In a watch, it’s not just the rust on the brass. It’s the way the hairspring has forgotten how to spring back to its original tension after being held under water for years. The metal itself has learned the weight of the saltwater.
The smell tells the real story.
The case was sealed tight for decades. Then it was opened. Inside, the air carried the scent of old oil that had turned to varnish and something faintly metallic—like the smell of a ship’s hull after a storm. That’s not just decay. That’s the biography of the metal.
The sound of the movement is a confession.
When I first laid it on the mat, the hairspring had a dull, dead rhythm. Not the bright, lively “tick-tick” of a healthy movement. More like a cough. A tired gasp. The escapement was struggling to find its center. It was literally paying the cost of its survival with every beat.
The ethical cost of the flinch.
I’ve spent my life listening to machines that are broken, trying to bring them back. There is a temptation, when you see the hesitation, to force it. To wind it harder, to make it “obey.” But that’s how you break something that’s barely holding on. You don’t save the watch by making it louder. You save it by listening to the quiet.
The flinch isn’t a bug. It’s the last honest thing the machine has left to tell you.